Sofia Coppola: Unconventional Beauty
By Francesca Berti
What we call "defects" are often one of the highlights of the beauty and the personality of a woman. That's why we asked Claudio Frantoni for advice on the right emphasis. Inspired by Frida Kahlo and other unconventional beauties.
No one called Picasso "Pablo," Kandinsky "Wassily", Monet "Claude." All, or nearly so, simply call Frida Kahlo "Frida." As if to say: the name is sufficient to remember her. A name inextricably linked with Mexico, its culture and its art although it is not — and this is evident — traditional. Kahlo is, in fact, the daughter of a German photographer and a woman of Amerindian origin, a union that gives her more over the name also a beauty out of the royalties. Androgynous and hyper-feminine at the same time, in a photograph she is never the same, she may be more or less beautiful depending on the angle, the light, the filter. A feature, this, of the unconventional beauty, of the aesthetics of personality, of the "important” physiognomy. Frida Kahlo, but also Uma Thurman, Christina Ricci, Chloë Sevigny. And also, Amanda Seyfried, Meryl Streep, Angelina Huston, and Sofia Coppola. Beautiful, but in a sophisticated way, never obvious. Why is it that on their faces what is commonly considered a defect (large nose, thin lips, distant eyes) becomes a strength? Of this we have spoken with the brilliant Claudio Frantoni, Make Up Artist and Brand Manager for Italy NARS, who told us how makeup can be the best way to emphasize an unconventional beauty. Try it to believe it.
FOR A MAKE UP ARTIST, A FACE WITH NON-TRADITIONAL PROPORTIONS IS A CHALLENGE?
Making up a non-conventional face, more than a challenge is a stimulus, it allows you to work on the proportions, on the light and dark and on the geometry, thanks to the techniques of contouring, it is possible to transform the proportions creating amazing effects. Which is not to say a changed face, but simply emphasizing everything that is positive and hiding what is not harmonious.
HOW TO TURN A "DEFECT" INTO A FEATURE OF BEAUTY?
This is a real challenge. In fact, the development of a defect must be a shared decision between those who have it and the makeup artist, one must study the personality, facial features, and even movements, point to a defect becomes a way of life (for example, Barbra Streisand with her nose, Liza Minnelli with her strabismus). There are choices that do not change then and are almost final. It is easier to focus on a feature... an eye downward, easy to be transformed into a seductive and romantic look or a thin mouth that becomes a magnet for the eyes if it is made up geometrically.
TALK INSTEAD OF CAMOUFLAGE: HOW TO MAKE UP A NOSE THAT IS TOO PROMINENT?
To disguise a nose, the easiest thing is to darken the sides and the tip, clearing all that is around, in this way you get a very efficacious proportion. Use caution, this type of fix works poorly in the light of the sun. It has more effect during the night and with artificial lights.
AND IF YOUR LIPS ARE THIN, ON WHAT TO BET?
If your lips are thin and you do not like this, it is better to make up the mouth in transparency and gloss it, and work on the eyes and cheekbones, it looks like a style choice and not one of necessity.
UNCONVENTIONAL BEAUTY: IT IS BETTER A SOFT MAKEUP OR A THEATRICAL MAKEUP THAT HIGHLIGHTS THE PERSONALITY (I THINK OF ALMODOVAR)?
For every personality there is its makeup, if the goal is to create a personage it is better to use a strong character makeup, based on the characteristics of the face after careful study. If the makeup is more a choice of life than of passion, it is better soft and calm, sweeten the face and it will be easy to be proposed to always.
[For those wishing to immerse themselves in the world of unconventional beauties painted by Frida Kahlo at the Quirinal Stables in Rome (until August 31) there is an exhibition dedicated to her and sponsored by Special BioNike. Partnering for nothing random sees that the cosmetic brand has always been careful to respect the beauty in all its forms and representation.]
Sofia Viganò, Vogue Italia
PUBLISHED: June 25, 2014 - 06:30
Translation from Italian to English by Francesca Berti
Sofia Coppola in Vogue Italia editorial images © 2014 Condé Nast. Sofia Coppola All Rights Reserved.